If you ask me, what’s the best crochet stitch to make a potholder – I’ll say defenitely it’s the Thermal stitch. There are a few versions of that stitch that I have seen so far – using single, double and half double crochets (there may be even more).
I’ve experimented with those and my favourites are the single and half double crochet. If you are a beginner, I would start with single crochet thermal stitch first just to get a feel for it as it’s easier, in my opinion.
This pattern is using half double crochets, I have modified it a little and came up with my own version.
I’m not sure if there is a more specific name for this stitch as I couldn’t find the exact same stitch anywhere, but if you know it please share it in the comments below! I simply call it Half Double Crochet Thermal stitch – because that’s what it is! 🙂
I’ve used Fiddlesticks Finch cotton yarn that I got from a local store, but you can use any yarn you like. The main thing is it’s 100% cotton and the 10 ply works great as it’s going to create that extra thickness.
I’ve used 8 ply in my single crochet thermal stitch potholder and it works very well too.
I’m also using half double crochets here and it seems that it’s even thicker than the single crochet thermal stitch. But maybe it’s just because it creates a more textured surface. Anyhow, you can try this for yourself and see which one you like better 🙂
Yarn: 100% Cotton, 10 ply
Hook: 5mm (H-8)
Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
20cm x 16cm (8” x 6.5”)
15 stitches x 22 rows in Thermal HDC = 10cm (4″)
Ch = chain
St = stitch
Sl St = slip stitch
HDC = half double crochet
Th HDC = Thermal half double crochet (yarn over, insert hook into the back loop and into the back loop stitches of the row below, yarn over pull through 3 loops on hook, yarn over pull through all loops on hook). You can find a more detailed explanation of this stitch in the video demonstration below.
Row 1: HDC into the second Ch from hook and across the row (total 27 throughout the pattern)
Row 2: Chain 2, Th HDC into the first st and across. (Th HDC = yarn over, insert your hook into the back loop only of the first stitch and into the first chain loop below. See picture or watch video demonstration below for more clarification.
Note: It’s easier if you turn your work the way it’s on the picture below, so that you can see the parallel stitches. It’s important to work into the right stitches so that it will match up at the end of the row.
Note: It may seem that the stitches in the row below are slightly behind the current one, best to double check by turning your work so that you can see them better. I frequently count the top and bottom stitches especially in the beginning to make sure they match up.
Row 3-35: Ch 2, Th HDC into the first stitch and across.
Note: From this row on – insert your hook into the back loop and the back loop + third loop of the row below as you see on the picture below. It looks like the letter V.
Ch 15 to make a loop and continue to LAST ROW.
After you’ve chained 15 for the loop – instead of working into the back loop only – now insert your hook under the third loop (as on the picture below) and into the ‘V’ (back loops from the row below as you did all the previous rows). Slip stitch through all the loops and across the row.
Finish off and weave in all ends.
If you like this pattern and would like to print it in a nice format or save it on your desktop for later use, you can get the printable PDF of this pattern here on Etsy.